Eco-Friendly Fabrics: Linen, Hemp, Ramie, Cotton, Wool, Silk, and Bamboo
It can be overwhelming to see the huge variety of fibres that fabric can be made out of. For those of us trying to decrease our environmental footprint, it can get even more complicated! There are many factors to consider when choosing a fabric for its environmental friendliness, such as: how much water is used in production, can it biodegrade, what chemicals are used in the production, how quickly does the source of the fibre replenish (and does harvesting that source cause damage to the ecosystem). There are many other concerns, of course, such as how the workers are treated, paid, and what the working conditions are. We'll look at that in another article, for now we'll just cover the fabrics themselves.
Natural fibres are all fibres that are biodegradable; they either come from plants or living creatures. This means they generally take more work to create the finished fibre than something human-made in a lab (like polyester), but the resources used are generally easier to replace.
Linen - Linen is one of the best fabrics for the eco-conscious. It comes from the flax plant, which grows thickly (taking up less space than cotton), and the fibre itself is extremely tough as it is an extremely long fibre. It requires less water than cotton as well. The resulting fabric is long lasting and hard wearing, but breaks down quickly in a composting situation. The fibres themselves start of quite rough and stiff, but soften wonderfully with wear and washing. However, due to this roughness, some people with sensitive skin may find linen unpleasant at first. Linen breathes more easily than cotton and will help keep your body cool in hot weather. It wrinkles easily, but linen wrinkles are considered part of the charm of the fabric.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: Oh my goodness, yes
Shrinkage: just a little
Water Usage: medium
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: no
Long Lasting Fabric: very long lasting
Cost: High
Hemp - Hemp is similar to Linen in many ways; its strength, durability, thermoregulating qualities, and compostability. It does not wrinkle as deeply as Linen, and the base fibre is shorter. It is softer to start with, and would be a great choice for those who find Linen too prickly. Hemp was one of the first plants cultivated for fibre, but due to the psychogenic compounds found in certain varieties, it has been banned in some countries. However, it is possible to grow hemp varieties that have low amounts of this compound in it. Hemp requires little to no pesticides, and also clears the soil of poisonous chemicals, and heavy metals.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: Yes, but not as badly as linen
Shrinkage: just a little
Water Usage: low
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: no
Long Lasting Fabric: very long lasting
Cost: High, but less than Linen
Ramie - Ramie is made from a non-stinging Nettle plant that has been cultivated for over 6000 years. It is fast-growing, and can be harvested up to 6 times a year in good growing conditions. It is also similar to linen in look and feel (as well as being breathable and easily biodegradable), but is slightly more brittle, though the fibre itself is very strong. The fibre also has very little elasticity, making it more difficult to spin into yarn. It requires more labour to process than linen, but is an extremely lightweight and airy fabric.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: somewhat
Shrinkage: just a little
Water Usage: medium
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: no
Long Lasting Fabric: fabric is more fragile
Cost: High
Cotton - Cotton is biodegradable plant fibre and has good thermoregulating properties. It takes dye extremely well. However, it requires a lot of space, fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides in order to grow. It requires a great deal of water as well, needing about 10,000L of water for 1kg of cotton. Currently, cotton accounts for about 2.5% of the world's arable land.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: a bit
Shrinkage: up to 10%
Water Usage: very high
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: very high
Long Lasting Fabric: fairly long lasting
cost: mid-range
Wool - Wool is the fur/hair of a sheep; although sometimes Goat (cashmere and mohair), Rabbit (angora), Alpaca, Bison, or Muskox (qiviut) fur can be referred to as wool conversationally. If you see "wool" on a clothing label, you can be sure it came from a sheep, unless another animal is named specifically. There are an amazing variety of different sheep breeds, all with different wool properties. Merino is a variety famous for the softness of its wool. The sheep are shorn (this does not hurt the sheep, and sheep bred for wool must be shorn as their hair does not fall out on its own), and the wool is washed, dyed, spun, and woven or knit. Wool is biodegradable, and will keep you warm even when wet. It is breathable as well, so makes a wonderful base layer in cold climates. Wool must be cared for; it must be handwashed to avoid felting it, and does best when not washed too frequently. It must be stored in an airtight container over summer months to avoid becoming infested with clothing moths, who will ruin the fabric. However, with care, wool garments can last a lifetime.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: No
Shrinkage: can felt
Water Usage: low-medium
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: no
Long Lasting Fabric: very long lasting
Cost: Medium to High
Silk - Silk is obtained from specific insect larvae's cocoons, the most common of which is the Mulberry Silkworm. Although there are some silks that are made from discarded cocoons (after the moth has emerged), this leaves the silk in shorter pieces which is more difficult to work with and produces a less fine fabric. Most silk is produced by killing the larvae before it emerges. It takes 100kg of Mulberry leaves and 3000 silkworks to create 1kg of silk. Silk has unique properties that refract light to make it shine. It is also breathable and strong, while being lightweight. It warms when next to the skin and can be very insulating in cold weather. It can biodegrade, though the dyes applied can hinder this process. Fine silks must be handwashed, though raw silk fabrics can usually go through the washing machine on a delicate cycle.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: somewhat
Shrinkage: it can be felted or ruined with agitation and high heat
Water Usage: medium
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: no
Long Lasting Fabric: very long lasting
Cost: Very High
Bamboo Rayon - Rayon was invented in an attempt to create artificial silk. It is a human-made fibre, but has a cellulose structure, unlike polyesters and other lab-made fibres. It also can biodegrade quickly, which most human-made fibres can not do (or take an extremely long time to do). It is created by pulping and liquifying bamboo, and then extruding it to create a long fibre. While this requires chemicals, there are some rayons that can be created in closed-loop facilities, means chemicals are used over and over again and do not enter the waste or water system. Bamboo grows densely and quickly, and is considered an invasive species, so bamboo farms must be carefully controlled to avoid taking over the natural ecosystem surrounding a farm. It is thermoregulating, smooth and soft to the touch, moisture wicking and absorbent. However, Rayon is a more delicate fabric that can not take high heat; so heavy ironing or dryer use will destroy the fabric quickly.
Biodegradable: Yes
Wrinkles: Yes
Shrinkage: Yes
Water Usage: Can be Midrange, but dependent on processing method
Pesticide or Herbicide Use: no
Long Lasting Fabric: no
Cost: Low